Sarees have their origins in the Indus Valley Civilization (2800-1800 BC), where women wore a three-piece outfit called Poshak, which included a lower garment (Uttariya), a chest band (Stanapatta), and a fabric draped over the shoulder (Antriya). While sarees became popular, they weren’t the go-to choice, especially in warmer climates where women would sometimes skip the chest band for comfort.

In the Gupta and Maurya periods (around 300 BC), women wore clothing similar to men’s, and fashion as we know it wasn’t really a thing. It wasn’t until the Mughal era (15th century) that fashion began to play a key role in everyday life, shaping the traditional outfits we see today, like the salwar kameez and lehenga.

The modern saree blouse, however, became a mainstream part of Indian fashion only during British colonial rule and under Western influence. This transformation helped shape the saree into the iconic garment it is today.

Jnanadanandini, married to Satyendranath Tagore, the first Indian to join the Indian Civil Service, observed how British customs influenced society. Bengali women typically wore sarees without blouses or petticoats, a style deeply rooted in local traditions. However, this attire was viewed as impractical and unmodest by the British, leading to a cultural divide. During a social event, Jnanadanandini was turned away from a club under British rule, and the reason given was her attire — the Bengali zenana style, where the sari was draped over her bare chest. This rejection sparked a strong reaction in Jnanadanandini. Motivated by the need for change, she decided to create a way to cover her upper torso more modestly while still maintaining the elegance and grace of the traditional sari drape. Instead of simply accepting these limitations, Jnanadanandini adapted the saree into something more practical for public life by introducing the blouse and petticoat. This design not only preserved cultural authenticity but also made the saree more functional and acceptable in a rapidly modernizing world.

The blouse and petticoat were not merely additions but part of a careful redesign. The petticoat provided structure, making the saree easier to manage, while the blouse was lightweight, ideal for India’s hot climate, and ensured comfort for women. She also introduced the "Nivi" drape, where the pleats are tucked into the petticoat, and the pallu drapes over the shoulder. This made wearing a saree far more comfortable and helped women present themselves confidently in social and professional spaces.