Women Weaving Freedom in Meghalaya

By Subitha

21 OCT 2024

The artistic, sustainable fashion initiatives of Nongtluh Women Weaving Cooperative and Impulse Enterprises run by Hasina Kharbhih. Impulse Power is mitigating human trafficking and providing a rich network in which women can use and improve their weaving skills to create artisans products that can be sold both locally and internationally. The symbols from their tribal traditions are interwoven with their artistic work.

The Nongtluh Weaving Cooperative is using natural plant and vegetable dyes, as well as sustainable practices that are aligned with the natural ecosystem in Meghalaya. The more we can understand these practices, the more we can scale these initiatives so that sustainable and ethical fashion does not just become an alternative, it becomes the way to produce fashion that is central to all our lives. Only then can we live more in harmony with nature, without destroying its vast and plentiful resources for our own desire or gain. 

The main objective of the co-operative is to give women from the area the ability to participate in the economic, social and cultural activities of the handloom sector, whilst protecting the rich eco-system of Meghalaya with the use of natural materials and traditional, yet innovative methods. Here the natural colour is being drained to create a smooth liquid that can be heated over a fire with the natural silk. This technique has been passed down from generation to generation. The traditional Khasi Dhara, is mostly plain in design with simple border patterns. The non-synthetic plant based colours produce these earthly shades that are less loud and more aligned with mother nature's hues.

The traditional attire worn by the Khasi women is a costly silk material woven out of Mulberry silk yarn. This traditional Khasi Dhara is simple but elegant in design and comes in various colours and simple border patterns. This is different from the typical Benaras sarees which is much more elaborate. The weavers from the Khasi tribe learn some of their patterns from the leaders in the cooperative, or in many cases, they create their own. 

These women weavers are not only learning skills that carry on traditions, but they are also innovating them and recreating new methods and patterns that will, contrary to popular belief will outlive the unsustainable practices of our era. Many say that these traditions will die out. This is not the case, in fact it is the opposite. Many of the patterns designed here reflect those of nature, such as the cherry blossom that flourishes not in spring like in Japan, but in the sweet cool mists of November, contrasting with the deep earth colours that celebrates nature itself.

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"Discontinuities in art traditions are common in history and especially threatening to the the crafts in small cultures when the traditional means of transmitting skills from one generation falls into disuse. It is at this point when schools have to provide the means for continuity. At the same time such schools must make it possible for young artists to be able to participate in the global aesthetic driven by technological innovations in the arts". Hans Guggenheim.

Hasina founded Impulse Social Enterprise, a Shillong-based firm, which has given the local women’s products the brand name “Empower”. Hasina's social enterprise is collaborating with boutiques so that these handmade crafts are promoted outside the region. Future plans are to grow the enterprise so that there are 5,000-plus rural women artisans that will be part of this initiative. This ensures women weavers and crafts people to be employed and when their products are sold the revenue goes back to the weavers and artisans.